{"title":"Winter 2024","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"silver-turkman-pendant-with-tassels-and-gold-wash","title":"Silver Turkman \"Mountain\" Pendant with Gold Wash","description":"\u003cp\u003eNice vintage pendant from the Turkman peoples of Central Asia.  This particular pendant has a light gold wash, known as \"fire gilding,\" and original lovely carnelian stones.  Carnelian stones were believed to protect the wearer from illness and death and the stones on this piece appear original and in very good condition.  The triangular shape of the pendant is emblematic of the mountains that surround the Central Asian region where these pendants are from.      \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pendant measures 4 inches wide by 3 inches tall.  It weighs 52.4 grams.  It is in very good shape, with the exception that the barrell on one side of the pendant is broken off (see the close up picture).  There are also some minor scratches and the bezels around the stone are slightly rough.  Still, a beautiful piece of folks art.     \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has an \u003ca title=\"Met Museum Turkman History\" href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\"\u003eexcellent history of the Turkman peoples\u003c\/a\u003e and the role of jewelry in the culture of these Central Asian nomads:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual’s passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Met explains that \"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePieces of carnelian, a bright red colored stone, are popular because they are believed to protect the wearers from illness and death.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44604277915814,"sku":"Mountain1","price":165.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/Triangle_Pendant1-sm.png?v=1732747745"},{"product_id":"yemen-silver-prayer-box","title":"Yemen Silver Prayer Box","description":"\u003cp\u003eBeautiful antique coin silver pendant from Yemen, likely made by Jewish silver smiths in the mid-20th century.  The decoations are little silver balls soldered onto the design.  The piece is likely 80% silver, consistent with silver coins that formed the basis for most of these silver pieces.  Most likely there is a piece of scripture or other amulet inside the box (which does not open).  The bails were soldered on beautifully (and very securely).  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePendant weights 28.0 grams and measures 50 mm x 50 mm x 12 mm thick.  Pendent has obviously seen some wear, but is still in relatively good shape for a piece that was likely actively used as jewelry during its lifetime.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45876964917414,"sku":"","price":85.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/Yemen-Silver-Box.jpg?v=1728764775"},{"product_id":"yemen-silver-necklace-large-unfinished","title":"Yemen Silver Bead Necklace - Large (Unfinished)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis amazing set of 13 Yemen silver beads, each one signed by the artist.  The beads on this necklace are extremely well matched, and the center bead is one of the largest Yemeni silver beads we have ever seen.  \u003cspan\u003eEach bead is hand-made and comprised of many tiny silver elements that have been hand applied to each bead, often with an equator around the middle and longitudnal lines up and down.  These beads were made by Jewish silver smiths living in Yemen before World War II.  These beads are beautiful gems -- all bear the signature of the artist -- and have a lovely patina.    \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eNote that no bead is exactly perfect -- they are, after all, thin silver and probably about 100 years old, and a few have minor dents or missing decorations.  Of particular note, the largest bead has a couple of small dents and the second largest bead has several noticeable dents (although both are still quite beautiful beads).  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe beads are well matched and strung like a necklace, but there is no clasp.  However, there are two very nice large bead cone beads at the top which really help finish it off if someone wanted to restring it and put a clasp on there.  We can always restring it for you upon request.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe largest bead is 45 mm in diameter and 50 mm in length.  The cones at the top are 45 mm long and about 15 mm in diameter.  The entire necklace is about 24 inches of beads (plus an extra inch or slack).  The entire necklace weighs 257 grams.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe history of these amazing jewelry pieces is laid out best by our friends at \u003ca title=\"Beadazzled.net\" href=\"http:\/\/www.beadazzled.net\/reference-print.php?id=625\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eBeadazzled\u003c\/a\u003e:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYemeni Silver Beads \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCenturies-Old Craftsmanship\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAt the southern tip of the Arabian Desert, Yemen juts into the Gulf of Aden, which links the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean. For thousands of years, Yemen served as a crossroads of land and sea routes between Africa, Asia, and Europe, for the movement of goods and peoples and the diffusion of technology, art, religion, and ideas. This cross-cultural contact left its mark on Yemeni jewelry, which incorporates a great variety of motifs with varied meanings. Historically, the finest work was crafted by Jewish silversmiths, largely for Muslim clients, not only in Yemen but throughout the Middle East. They used precious materials from distant sources and metalworking techniques that go back to ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLegend says that Jewish traders first settled in Yemen in the 10\u003csup\u003eth\u003c\/sup\u003e century BC, after King Solomon sent ships south to fabled Ophir in pursuit of trade, and the Queen of Sheba returned the visit, traveling to Jerusalem via camel caravan, bearing gold, gemstones, and those prized Yemeni products, frankincense and myrrh. In time, Jews came to flourish as craftsmen in Yemen, excelling as gold- and silversmiths until the mid-20\u003csup\u003eth\u003c\/sup\u003e century. Then, in 1949-50, virtually all the Jews in Yemen left for Israel. Before departing, however, Jewish smiths trained their Arab counterparts, who strive to carry on the proud legacy of Yemeni craftsmanship. While it is difficult to determine the origin and dates of much Middle Eastern jewelry, Yemeni pieces are distinguished by their quality, and to this day, the finest are praised as “Jewish work.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eForms and Functions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBesides enhancing a woman’s beauty, traditional Yemeni jewelry reflects her cultural environment. It shows what ethnic or religious group she belongs to, whether her husband is poor or prosperous, which town or village she is from or whether she is a nomadic Bedouin. The uses of traditional jewelry afford insights into the patterns of traditional life. Personal ornaments play a role in the age-old rituals of securing a spouse, celebrating a marriage, welcoming a birth, protecting against evil, and praising God.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarriage contracts were customarily sealed with bridewealth, mainly silver jewelry. Provided by the groom, it becomes the wife’s property, ensuring her economic security. From time to time she may add to it with a gift from her husband, by making household economies, or by using the proceeds from the sale of a rug she has woven to acquire more jewelry. In time of need, a woman may sell some of her jewelry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe most spectacular array of jewelry was traditionally worn by Jewish brides of Sana’a, the capital of Yemen. Swathed in gold brocade, the young bride, who may not have even reached puberty, was so weighted with jewelry she could scarcely move. Rings encircled her fingers, bracelets encased her arms, and strands of huge gilt silver beads, called \u003cem\u003edugag,\u003c\/em\u003e enveloped her body from neck to waist, which was enclosed in a silver belt hung with bells; ropes of pearls and gold pendants hung from her temples; an elaborate bib necklace, called a \u003cem\u003elabbeh,\u003c\/em\u003ewreathed her chin; and crowning all was a high tiara framed in fresh flowers and layered with shimmering white pearls, precious red coral, black beads, and gold filigree dangles. Called \u003cem\u003etishluk lu’lu’,\u003c\/em\u003e this towering headdress gave its name to the entire ensemble. Other festive occasions when a woman displayed pieces from her jewelry collection included\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e the henna painting ceremony before the wedding and the Sabbath when she first received visitors after childbirth. \u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHuge silver spheres adorned with barley patterns were the most prominent feature of the wedding regalia of Jewish brides. These silver beads were popular among Muslim women, but ordinarily Jewish women didn’t wear them. They preferred jewelry with wheat designs. On her wedding day, however, the Jewish bride wore many strands of these beads, both plain and gilt silver—she was embellished all over with barley motifs. The use of these beads in the Jewish wedding ensemble enlisted the power of the “Other” for added protection of the bride during the perilous transition from girlhood to womanhood. Conversely, pregnant Muslim women often wore Jewish jewelry to ward off the evil eye and ensure a healthy child. In yet another example of cross-dressing, so to speak, the traditional finery of Yemeni Muslim brides included large cubical beads of amber; these beads were also sought after by Jewish mothers, who hung them round the necks of their children or sewed them to their clothing as amulets.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003eBedouin and village women wear a great deal of jewelry while milking goats, weaving rugs, grinding grain, or kneading dough. Massive silver bracelets are always worn in pairs, sometimes five pairs or more. Although they look heavy, they are usually hollow and are relatively light. Anklets are also worn in pairs, while multiple rings adorn fingers and toes. Nose ornaments include large beaded hoops hung with dangles, long pendants inlaid with glass beads, and silver studs in the nostrils. Hoops hung with dangles also decorate ears; often multiple hoops are worn through the ears or suspended from a chain that passes over the head. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eProtective ornaments have many forms and functions. Cylindrical or rectangular amulet cases are also sewn to children’s clothing, and a woman’s necklace may incorporate several such cases. The cylindrical cases are called \u003cem\u003ehirz \u003c\/em\u003eby Muslims and \u003cem\u003ektab \u003c\/em\u003e(pl. \u003cem\u003ekutub\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003cem\u003e \u003c\/em\u003eby Jews. Some may be opened for the insertion of sacred verses from the Koran or Jewish scripture. Others are left empty and soldered shut. The cases themselves are believed to be invested with amuletic powers that not only can turn away malevolent forces but can attract benevolent ones. Similarly, reciting the 99 attributes of God while counting their 99 prayer beads, the Muslim faithful invoke divine protection as well as divine blessings. And as a woman moves through the bazaar, the tinkle of tiny bells and swish of silver dangles is protective as well as seductive, as is the aroma of scented jewelry intensified by body heat—sound, motion, and smell can repel mischief-making jinn and at the same time attract the glance of passing admirers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMotifs and Meanings\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRich in symbolism, the opulent ornamentation of Yemeni jewelry echoes Islamic expression in other arts—the lush floral patterns of Persian rugs, the dazzling geometric designs of tile mosaics, the curving lines of calligraphy. Animal and human motifs are rare and highly stylized. A notable exception is the eye, which is widely used to counter the malevolent gaze of the evil eye and deflect it from the wearer. Reduced to its essence in the form of dots and circles, the eye often embellishes dark wood prayer beads in the form of silver piqué work or adorns a silver pendant as a luminous gemstone cabochon. The hand of Fatima also turns away evil, as do arrowlike triangles and swinging tassels. The sun, the moon, and the stars are Islamic astral motifs. The six-pointed Star of David is a mystical Jewish symbol.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMany motifs recall primeval forms of human adornment—seeds, fruit, leaves, flowers. These symbols of nature endure in Yemeni jewelry as stylized rosettes, foliage, grain, almonds, berries, and mangos. While their specific meanings are often unknown, these motifs are associated with general well-being. Grain and pomegranates, bursting with juicy seeds, are symbols of abundance and fertility. Wheat and barley are also linked to women’s daily task of grinding grain to make bread, the basic staple of the Yemeni diet. The Jewish preference for wheat motifs can be traced to the Bible, which tells that barley was used as fodder for Solomon’s horses. Jewish silversmiths were learned craftsmen who knew the significance of each motif—its magical attributes and connection to Koranic or Talmudic texts—and they matched their designs to their clients. Today much of this lore has been lost, and the meaning of many motifs lies buried in the collective unconscious.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMaterials and Techniques\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEvery large village once had a resident silversmith who made jewelry for all patrons. Some craftsmen traveled the surrounding desert to serve the nomadic Bedouin. But over time, silversmiths, like much of the population, migrated to the cities where they set up shop in the \u003cem\u003esuq\u003c\/em\u003e as both artisan and merchant, with clients all over the Middle East. The largest community of Yemeni smiths congregated in Sana’a, the capital, where several hundred Jews once worked in the silver \u003cem\u003esuq\u003c\/em\u003e. Their silver supply consisted in large part of recycled silver. In the Arab world, jewelry is not heirloomed, that is, a woman’s bridewealth is not passed down from generation to generation. Rather, when she dies her jewelry is sold to the smith, and the proceeds from such a sale can help a family purchase new jewelry for a new bride when the occasion arises. For his part, the smith puts the jewelry in a burn bag and melts it down as needed to replenish his silver supply. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSince the mid-1700s, the principal source of the silver used in Middle Eastern jewelry has traditionally been silver coins, preponderantly the Maria Theresa \u003cem\u003ethaler,\u003c\/em\u003e named for the Queen of Bohemia and Hungary. Because the \u003cem\u003ethaler\u003c\/em\u003e’s standards of weight and fineness were rigorously maintained, it became a standard of value that is widely used in Asia and Africa. After Maria Theresa died in 1780, coins bearing that date continued to be struck. About 200 million thalers were estimated to be in circulation in Yemen and Ethiopia in 1900. And to this day they continue to be struck and Yemeni smiths continue to draw on this huge pool of \u003cem\u003ethaler,\u003c\/em\u003e with its stable silver content of about 85%, to regulate the quality of their silver. Recently Middle Eastern smiths have accessed yet a third source of supply, silver ingots from China.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe clientele of the smiths is varied, and they vary their work accordingly, tailoring it to their customers’ resources as well as their tastes. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSince Bedouins are generally poorer than farmers, Bedouin jewelry is generally made of lower grade silver than the jewelry of settled folk, and red glass, or sometimes jasper or carnelian, is used instead of coral. While \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003ethe jewelry Yemeni smiths made for their Muslim peers was often similar to what they made for their fellow Jews, they tended to lavish more time and effort on Jewish pieces, crafting elaborate filigree elements, for example, instead of using easily made stamped parts. For pieces commissioned by high-ranking Muslim clients, Jewish jewelers worked in high karat gold instead of gilt silver or simply silver, and used pearls, Mediterranean coral, and high-quality gemstones.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe tools \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eof the Yemeni silversmith’s trade have remained essentially the same over thousands of years of Middle Eastern metalworking. His basic toolkit is simple: a wooden block, a hammer and anvil, along with chisels to cut, awls to pierce, punches, stamps, and burnishers, as well as a blowpipe or bellows, a melting crucible, and molds of some sort.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eFundamental to his work is the fabrication of flat sheet, grains and shot, and wire. These are the basic elements from which he constructs his jewelry. He then turns to his vast repertoire of techniques to create rich surface ornamentation: h\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eammering and annealing; casting and soldering; repoussé, chasing, and engraving; embossing, punching, and stamping; appliqu\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eé\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eand openwork; granulation and filigree. Using a dapping block and a punch, the smith creates hemispheres from silver sheet. Then soldering two hemispheres together he creates beads which he subsequently decorates, using wirework and granulation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e He also uses granules and shot as structural elements to reinforce joints of sheet or wire. In addition, he makes small cubical beads called \u003cem\u003etut \u003c\/em\u003eentirely from shot soldered together.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Using wire of various gauges, he makes chains, loops, links, and rings to assemble the various components.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eTraditional Yemeni jewelry is made up of myriad components, rich in detail and decoration. Besides being used to link elements together and suspend pendants, chain is also used for decoration: short lengths serve as fringe, long lengths swing from headdresses, and delicate links are an integral ornamental feature of bib necklaces. Yemeni jewelry is also characterized by a profusion of pendants, plaques, bells, and dangles in many different shapes. As many as five or more amulet cases may be strung along with other components in a single necklace. Exotic coins are also prominently displayed—Ottoman, Arab, French, Indian, but especially Maria Theresa \u003cem\u003ethaler. \u003c\/em\u003eThey are hung from necklaces either as simple pendants or embellished with dangles. Flat surfaces provide a perfect canvas for smiths who find empty space abhorrent, and pendants, caps, plaques, spacers, and triangular terminals are typically encrusted with abstract and vegetal ornamentation created by granulation, appliqu\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eé\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, and filigree.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003ePearls from the Persian Gulf and gemstone beads, especially red-orange carnelian from India, are occasionally used in Yemeni jewelry. But coral of various colors, most notably precious red coral from the Mediterranean, has always been the material of choice to complement the silversmith’s work. In addition, red is a symbol of beauty and youth and is believed to have protective powers. Coral beads are often interspersed with\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e a\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003enother distinctive Yemini bead, a solid silver octagonal bead the size of a pea, called \u003cem\u003emithamminah\u003c\/em\u003e. Coral pieces are also set in bezels on amulet cases or plaques. Today precious coral has grown scarce and become expensive, however, and red glass beads and cabochons are often used instead. Other exotic materials that Middle Eastern jewelers have had access to since times of the Silk Road include amber from the Baltic, ivory from Africa, gold, and gemstones. Among the more humble materials they sometimes use in jewelry are cowrie shells, faux amber, and scented beads made of local plant materials, such as myrhh and cloves.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTraditional Jewelry Today\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003eIn the rapidly evolving Middle East, much has changed in the six decades since the Jewish smiths left Yemen. Traditional silver jewelry is disappearing, as is the traditional world in which it was created and used. The demand is now for gold. Upscale urban dwellers’ desire for gold is usually satisfied by contemporary jewelry made in Italy. while rural folk’s lust for glitter lures them to cheap costume jewelry. And although some of the traditional wedding finery is worn on special occasions, for the marriage ceremony, the bride usually wears a modern white wedding gown.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003eBecause Yemeni families do not heirloom a deceased woman’s bridewealth but sell it to smiths who recycle the silver, examples of traditional silver jewelry more than a generation old are rare. In large urban \u003cem\u003esuqs\u003c\/em\u003e, however, a few elderly silversmiths remain. Masters of their craft, they continue to use traditional techniques to produce traditional designs in the face of modernity, mass production, and a dwindling clientele. And if a knowledgeable collector or dealer is lucky he may find a good piece in stock, or better yet, she may be allowed to rummage through the burn bag and save a treasure or two from the fire.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45877131542694,"sku":"YemenFlowerUnfin","price":1300.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/YemenFlower1-400.jpg?v=1728828681"},{"product_id":"yemen-silver-bead-necklace-finished-necklace","title":"Yemen Silver Bead Necklace - Finished Necklace","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis amazing necklace of 6 large Yemen silver beads, each one signed by the artist, and 7 smaller spacer beads.  The beads on this necklace are extremely well matched.  \u003cspan\u003eEach bead is hand-made and comprised of many tiny silver elements that have been hand applied to each bead, with an equator around the middle and longitudnal lines up and down.  These beads were made by Jewish silver smiths living in Yemen before World War II.  These beads are beautiful gems -- all bear the signature of the artist -- and have a lovely patina.    \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eThe beads are in excellent shape and are very solid (note that the extra weight does add to the price).  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe beads are strung on a silver chain with a clasp in the back.  The larger beads measure approximately 30 mm in diameter and the smaller spacer beads (which are also quite beautiful) measure about 18 mm in diameter.  The entire necklace measures 18 inches.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe entire necklace weighs 147.2 grams.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe history of these amazing jewelry pieces is laid out best by our friends at \u003ca title=\"Beadazzled.net\" href=\"http:\/\/www.beadazzled.net\/reference-print.php?id=625\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eBeadazzled\u003c\/a\u003e:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYemeni Silver Beads \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCenturies-Old Craftsmanship\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAt the southern tip of the Arabian Desert, Yemen juts into the Gulf of Aden, which links the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean. For thousands of years, Yemen served as a crossroads of land and sea routes between Africa, Asia, and Europe, for the movement of goods and peoples and the diffusion of technology, art, religion, and ideas. This cross-cultural contact left its mark on Yemeni jewelry, which incorporates a great variety of motifs with varied meanings. Historically, the finest work was crafted by Jewish silversmiths, largely for Muslim clients, not only in Yemen but throughout the Middle East. They used precious materials from distant sources and metalworking techniques that go back to ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLegend says that Jewish traders first settled in Yemen in the 10\u003csup\u003eth\u003c\/sup\u003e century BC, after King Solomon sent ships south to fabled Ophir in pursuit of trade, and the Queen of Sheba returned the visit, traveling to Jerusalem via camel caravan, bearing gold, gemstones, and those prized Yemeni products, frankincense and myrrh. In time, Jews came to flourish as craftsmen in Yemen, excelling as gold- and silversmiths until the mid-20\u003csup\u003eth\u003c\/sup\u003e century. Then, in 1949-50, virtually all the Jews in Yemen left for Israel. Before departing, however, Jewish smiths trained their Arab counterparts, who strive to carry on the proud legacy of Yemeni craftsmanship. While it is difficult to determine the origin and dates of much Middle Eastern jewelry, Yemeni pieces are distinguished by their quality, and to this day, the finest are praised as “Jewish work.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eForms and Functions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBesides enhancing a woman’s beauty, traditional Yemeni jewelry reflects her cultural environment. It shows what ethnic or religious group she belongs to, whether her husband is poor or prosperous, which town or village she is from or whether she is a nomadic Bedouin. The uses of traditional jewelry afford insights into the patterns of traditional life. Personal ornaments play a role in the age-old rituals of securing a spouse, celebrating a marriage, welcoming a birth, protecting against evil, and praising God.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarriage contracts were customarily sealed with bridewealth, mainly silver jewelry. Provided by the groom, it becomes the wife’s property, ensuring her economic security. From time to time she may add to it with a gift from her husband, by making household economies, or by using the proceeds from the sale of a rug she has woven to acquire more jewelry. In time of need, a woman may sell some of her jewelry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe most spectacular array of jewelry was traditionally worn by Jewish brides of Sana’a, the capital of Yemen. Swathed in gold brocade, the young bride, who may not have even reached puberty, was so weighted with jewelry she could scarcely move. Rings encircled her fingers, bracelets encased her arms, and strands of huge gilt silver beads, called \u003cem\u003edugag,\u003c\/em\u003e enveloped her body from neck to waist, which was enclosed in a silver belt hung with bells; ropes of pearls and gold pendants hung from her temples; an elaborate bib necklace, called a \u003cem\u003elabbeh,\u003c\/em\u003ewreathed her chin; and crowning all was a high tiara framed in fresh flowers and layered with shimmering white pearls, precious red coral, black beads, and gold filigree dangles. Called \u003cem\u003etishluk lu’lu’,\u003c\/em\u003e this towering headdress gave its name to the entire ensemble. Other festive occasions when a woman displayed pieces from her jewelry collection included\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e the henna painting ceremony before the wedding and the Sabbath when she first received visitors after childbirth. \u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHuge silver spheres adorned with barley patterns were the most prominent feature of the wedding regalia of Jewish brides. These silver beads were popular among Muslim women, but ordinarily Jewish women didn’t wear them. They preferred jewelry with wheat designs. On her wedding day, however, the Jewish bride wore many strands of these beads, both plain and gilt silver—she was embellished all over with barley motifs. The use of these beads in the Jewish wedding ensemble enlisted the power of the “Other” for added protection of the bride during the perilous transition from girlhood to womanhood. Conversely, pregnant Muslim women often wore Jewish jewelry to ward off the evil eye and ensure a healthy child. In yet another example of cross-dressing, so to speak, the traditional finery of Yemeni Muslim brides included large cubical beads of amber; these beads were also sought after by Jewish mothers, who hung them round the necks of their children or sewed them to their clothing as amulets.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003eBedouin and village women wear a great deal of jewelry while milking goats, weaving rugs, grinding grain, or kneading dough. Massive silver bracelets are always worn in pairs, sometimes five pairs or more. Although they look heavy, they are usually hollow and are relatively light. Anklets are also worn in pairs, while multiple rings adorn fingers and toes. Nose ornaments include large beaded hoops hung with dangles, long pendants inlaid with glass beads, and silver studs in the nostrils. Hoops hung with dangles also decorate ears; often multiple hoops are worn through the ears or suspended from a chain that passes over the head. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eProtective ornaments have many forms and functions. Cylindrical or rectangular amulet cases are also sewn to children’s clothing, and a woman’s necklace may incorporate several such cases. The cylindrical cases are called \u003cem\u003ehirz \u003c\/em\u003eby Muslims and \u003cem\u003ektab \u003c\/em\u003e(pl. \u003cem\u003ekutub\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003cem\u003e \u003c\/em\u003eby Jews. Some may be opened for the insertion of sacred verses from the Koran or Jewish scripture. Others are left empty and soldered shut. The cases themselves are believed to be invested with amuletic powers that not only can turn away malevolent forces but can attract benevolent ones. Similarly, reciting the 99 attributes of God while counting their 99 prayer beads, the Muslim faithful invoke divine protection as well as divine blessings. And as a woman moves through the bazaar, the tinkle of tiny bells and swish of silver dangles is protective as well as seductive, as is the aroma of scented jewelry intensified by body heat—sound, motion, and smell can repel mischief-making jinn and at the same time attract the glance of passing admirers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMotifs and Meanings\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRich in symbolism, the opulent ornamentation of Yemeni jewelry echoes Islamic expression in other arts—the lush floral patterns of Persian rugs, the dazzling geometric designs of tile mosaics, the curving lines of calligraphy. Animal and human motifs are rare and highly stylized. A notable exception is the eye, which is widely used to counter the malevolent gaze of the evil eye and deflect it from the wearer. Reduced to its essence in the form of dots and circles, the eye often embellishes dark wood prayer beads in the form of silver piqué work or adorns a silver pendant as a luminous gemstone cabochon. The hand of Fatima also turns away evil, as do arrowlike triangles and swinging tassels. The sun, the moon, and the stars are Islamic astral motifs. The six-pointed Star of David is a mystical Jewish symbol.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMany motifs recall primeval forms of human adornment—seeds, fruit, leaves, flowers. These symbols of nature endure in Yemeni jewelry as stylized rosettes, foliage, grain, almonds, berries, and mangos. While their specific meanings are often unknown, these motifs are associated with general well-being. Grain and pomegranates, bursting with juicy seeds, are symbols of abundance and fertility. Wheat and barley are also linked to women’s daily task of grinding grain to make bread, the basic staple of the Yemeni diet. The Jewish preference for wheat motifs can be traced to the Bible, which tells that barley was used as fodder for Solomon’s horses. Jewish silversmiths were learned craftsmen who knew the significance of each motif—its magical attributes and connection to Koranic or Talmudic texts—and they matched their designs to their clients. Today much of this lore has been lost, and the meaning of many motifs lies buried in the collective unconscious.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMaterials and Techniques\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEvery large village once had a resident silversmith who made jewelry for all patrons. Some craftsmen traveled the surrounding desert to serve the nomadic Bedouin. But over time, silversmiths, like much of the population, migrated to the cities where they set up shop in the \u003cem\u003esuq\u003c\/em\u003e as both artisan and merchant, with clients all over the Middle East. The largest community of Yemeni smiths congregated in Sana’a, the capital, where several hundred Jews once worked in the silver \u003cem\u003esuq\u003c\/em\u003e. Their silver supply consisted in large part of recycled silver. In the Arab world, jewelry is not heirloomed, that is, a woman’s bridewealth is not passed down from generation to generation. Rather, when she dies her jewelry is sold to the smith, and the proceeds from such a sale can help a family purchase new jewelry for a new bride when the occasion arises. For his part, the smith puts the jewelry in a burn bag and melts it down as needed to replenish his silver supply. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSince the mid-1700s, the principal source of the silver used in Middle Eastern jewelry has traditionally been silver coins, preponderantly the Maria Theresa \u003cem\u003ethaler,\u003c\/em\u003e named for the Queen of Bohemia and Hungary. Because the \u003cem\u003ethaler\u003c\/em\u003e’s standards of weight and fineness were rigorously maintained, it became a standard of value that is widely used in Asia and Africa. After Maria Theresa died in 1780, coins bearing that date continued to be struck. About 200 million thalers were estimated to be in circulation in Yemen and Ethiopia in 1900. And to this day they continue to be struck and Yemeni smiths continue to draw on this huge pool of \u003cem\u003ethaler,\u003c\/em\u003e with its stable silver content of about 85%, to regulate the quality of their silver. Recently Middle Eastern smiths have accessed yet a third source of supply, silver ingots from China.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe clientele of the smiths is varied, and they vary their work accordingly, tailoring it to their customers’ resources as well as their tastes. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSince Bedouins are generally poorer than farmers, Bedouin jewelry is generally made of lower grade silver than the jewelry of settled folk, and red glass, or sometimes jasper or carnelian, is used instead of coral. While \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003ethe jewelry Yemeni smiths made for their Muslim peers was often similar to what they made for their fellow Jews, they tended to lavish more time and effort on Jewish pieces, crafting elaborate filigree elements, for example, instead of using easily made stamped parts. For pieces commissioned by high-ranking Muslim clients, Jewish jewelers worked in high karat gold instead of gilt silver or simply silver, and used pearls, Mediterranean coral, and high-quality gemstones.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe tools \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eof the Yemeni silversmith’s trade have remained essentially the same over thousands of years of Middle Eastern metalworking. His basic toolkit is simple: a wooden block, a hammer and anvil, along with chisels to cut, awls to pierce, punches, stamps, and burnishers, as well as a blowpipe or bellows, a melting crucible, and molds of some sort.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eFundamental to his work is the fabrication of flat sheet, grains and shot, and wire. These are the basic elements from which he constructs his jewelry. He then turns to his vast repertoire of techniques to create rich surface ornamentation: h\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eammering and annealing; casting and soldering; repoussé, chasing, and engraving; embossing, punching, and stamping; appliqu\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eé\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eand openwork; granulation and filigree. Using a dapping block and a punch, the smith creates hemispheres from silver sheet. Then soldering two hemispheres together he creates beads which he subsequently decorates, using wirework and granulation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e He also uses granules and shot as structural elements to reinforce joints of sheet or wire. In addition, he makes small cubical beads called \u003cem\u003etut \u003c\/em\u003eentirely from shot soldered together.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Using wire of various gauges, he makes chains, loops, links, and rings to assemble the various components.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eTraditional Yemeni jewelry is made up of myriad components, rich in detail and decoration. Besides being used to link elements together and suspend pendants, chain is also used for decoration: short lengths serve as fringe, long lengths swing from headdresses, and delicate links are an integral ornamental feature of bib necklaces. Yemeni jewelry is also characterized by a profusion of pendants, plaques, bells, and dangles in many different shapes. As many as five or more amulet cases may be strung along with other components in a single necklace. Exotic coins are also prominently displayed—Ottoman, Arab, French, Indian, but especially Maria Theresa \u003cem\u003ethaler. \u003c\/em\u003eThey are hung from necklaces either as simple pendants or embellished with dangles. Flat surfaces provide a perfect canvas for smiths who find empty space abhorrent, and pendants, caps, plaques, spacers, and triangular terminals are typically encrusted with abstract and vegetal ornamentation created by granulation, appliqu\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eé\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, and filigree.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003ePearls from the Persian Gulf and gemstone beads, especially red-orange carnelian from India, are occasionally used in Yemeni jewelry. But coral of various colors, most notably precious red coral from the Mediterranean, has always been the material of choice to complement the silversmith’s work. In addition, red is a symbol of beauty and youth and is believed to have protective powers. Coral beads are often interspersed with\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e a\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003enother distinctive Yemini bead, a solid silver octagonal bead the size of a pea, called \u003cem\u003emithamminah\u003c\/em\u003e. Coral pieces are also set in bezels on amulet cases or plaques. Today precious coral has grown scarce and become expensive, however, and red glass beads and cabochons are often used instead. Other exotic materials that Middle Eastern jewelers have had access to since times of the Silk Road include amber from the Baltic, ivory from Africa, gold, and gemstones. Among the more humble materials they sometimes use in jewelry are cowrie shells, faux amber, and scented beads made of local plant materials, such as myrhh and cloves.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTraditional Jewelry Today\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003eIn the rapidly evolving Middle East, much has changed in the six decades since the Jewish smiths left Yemen. Traditional silver jewelry is disappearing, as is the traditional world in which it was created and used. The demand is now for gold. Upscale urban dwellers’ desire for gold is usually satisfied by contemporary jewelry made in Italy. while rural folk’s lust for glitter lures them to cheap costume jewelry. And although some of the traditional wedding finery is worn on special occasions, for the marriage ceremony, the bride usually wears a modern white wedding gown.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"\u003eBecause Yemeni families do not heirloom a deceased woman’s bridewealth but sell it to smiths who recycle the silver, examples of traditional silver jewelry more than a generation old are rare. In large urban \u003cem\u003esuqs\u003c\/em\u003e, however, a few elderly silversmiths remain. Masters of their craft, they continue to use traditional techniques to produce traditional designs in the face of modernity, mass production, and a dwindling clientele. And if a knowledgeable collector or dealer is lucky he may find a good piece in stock, or better yet, she may be allowed to rummage through the burn bag and save a treasure or two from the fire.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45983370510502,"sku":"Yemen001","price":650.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/Yemen001-sm_70e5fc67-fa91-4267-9847-ba04027fa384.png?v=1732746927"},{"product_id":"silver-turkman-mountain-pendant-with-gilt-tassels","title":"Silver Turkman \"Mountain\" Pendant with Gilt \u0026 Tassels","description":"\u003cp\u003eGorgeous vintage pendant from the Turkman peoples of Central Asia.  This particular pendant has a light gold wash, known as \"fire gilding,\" original lovely carnelian stones, and high-grade silver tassels.  Carnelian stones were believed to protect the wearer from illness and death and the stones on this piece appear original and in very good condition.  The triangular shape of the pendant is emblematic of the mountains that surround the Central Asian region where these pendants are from.      \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pendant measures 5 inches wide by 4 inches tall, not include the tassels.  With the tassels, it is 7 inches tall (4 inches of pendant and 3 inches of tassel).  It weighs 102.3 grams.  It is in very good shape, with the exception that the loop holding one tassel is broken off (see the close up picture).  It may be worth removing a tassel on the other side to make it symmetrical or just enjoy the imperfection.  Otherwise, this piece is in great shape.     \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has an \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\" title=\"Met Museum Turkman History\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\"\u003eexcellent history of the Turkman peoples\u003c\/a\u003e and the role of jewelry in the culture of these Central Asian nomads:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual’s passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Met explains that \"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePieces of carnelian, a bright red colored stone, are popular because they are believed to protect the wearers from illness and death.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45983390269606,"sku":"Mountain2","price":450.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/Mountain-small.png?v=1732752038"},{"product_id":"amazing-turkman-multipart-neclace","title":"Amazing Turkman Multipart Bukov Neclace","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis is a breathtaking necklace is from the Turkman peoples of Central Asia.  This stype of necklace is known as a \"Bukov,\" meaning \"neck band,\" and is specific to the Yomud and Salor tribes of Western and Southern Turkmenia.  The neck band includes an ingenious hook system that allows the large central pendant to come on and off.  The very definition of a statement piece!    \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eOld Silver Jewellery of the Turkoman\u003c\/em\u003e, by Dieter and Reinhold Schletzer, includes an extensive discussion of the various motifs of the \u003cem\u003ebukov\u003c\/em\u003e have special meeting, with many feauturing a butterfly design, signaling rebirth, \"\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eanalogous to the tripartite division of the universe.\"  However you interpret the iconography, this is a very special piece!  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis necklace is a true work of art, with \u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003ea beautiful light gold wash, known as \"fire gilding,\" original lovely table-cut carnelian stones, and silver tassels.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eCarnelian stones were believed to protect the wearer from illness and death and the stones on this piece appear original and in very good condition.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe central pendent piece of the bukov measures 6.5 inches wide and 3 inches tall, not including the tassels, which add an additional 3 inches.  The metal band measures 1 inch width and is approximately 20 inches long.  \u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eThe central piece weighs 167.6 grams, while the band measures an additional 162.8 grams.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eOverall, this piece is in remarkable condition.  The stones are uniformly beautiful, including the stones on the neck band portion of the necklace.  The gilding is also in good condition, although there is certainy some wear, consistent with a piece of this age.  The metal band has a bulge at the top as well.  Additionally, one of the tassels on the side of the neck band appears to have been replaced, and one of the tassels in the front is slightly longer than the others and may also be a replacement.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003e  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has an \u003ca title=\"Met Museum Turkman History\" href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\"\u003eexcellent history of the Turkman peoples\u003c\/a\u003e and the role of jewelry in the culture of these Central Asian nomads:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual’s passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Met explains that \"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePieces of carnelian, a bright red colored stone, are popular because they are believed to protect the wearers from illness and death.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45983446761638,"sku":"bukov1","price":1250.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/Tnecklace1-sm.png?v=1732752411"},{"product_id":"matched-pair-of-large-turkoman-pendants","title":"Matched Pair of Large Turkoman Pendants","description":"\u003cp\u003eGorgous pair of Turkman \u003cem\u003eGonzuk\u003c\/em\u003e pectoral pendants.  These pendants are work by the Turkman peoples of Central Asia and were likely originally part of a larger flat necklace that was fastened in the middle by the \u003cem\u003eGonzuk\u003c\/em\u003e.  Clearly, these two pieces were made by the same silver smith and we think it would be a shame to break them up now, so they are offered as a pair.    \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eOld Silver Jewellery of the Turkoman\u003c\/em\u003e, by Dieter and Reinhold Schletzer, includes an extensive discussion of the \u003cem\u003eGonzuk \u003c\/em\u003eand notes that they were largely worn by the Teke, Yomud, Norchurli, Guklan, Saryk and Salor peoples.  \u003cem\u003eSee \u003c\/em\u003epage 118. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis particular pair of \u003cem\u003eGonzuk\u003c\/em\u003e feature the traditional \u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003elight gold wash, known as \"fire gilding,\" original lovely cabachon cut carnelian stones, and silver tassels.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eCarnelian stones were believed to protect the wearer from illness and death and the stones on this piece appear original and in very good condition.  The shape of the pendants often invokes the mountains, which surrounded the Turkman people.    \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pendants measure 6.5 inches wide and 4.5 inches tall, not including the tassels, which add an extra 3 inches.  Each pendant weighs approximately 175 grams, or 350 grams total.  Both are in excellent condition, although one piece is missing two tassels\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003e.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has an \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\" title=\"Met Museum Turkman History\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\"\u003eexcellent history of the Turkman peoples\u003c\/a\u003e and the role of jewelry in the culture of these Central Asian nomads:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual’s passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Met explains that \"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePieces of carnelian, a bright red colored stone, are popular because they are believed to protect the wearers from illness and death.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45983774376102,"sku":"Gonzuk1","price":1200.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/TurkPair-Sm.png?v=1732765577"},{"product_id":"amazing-turkman-multipart-bukov-neclace-copy","title":"Amazing Turkman Bukov Neclace Pendant","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis is a breathtaking necklace from the Turkman peoples of Central Asia.  This stype of necklace is known as a \"Bukov,\" meaning \"neck band,\" and is specific to the Yomud and Salor tribes of Western and Southern Turkmenia.  Originally, the chain that the pendant is on would have been replaced by a heavy metal colar and then a pendnat than hangs from ingenious hook system.  This one has been seperated from its neckband and was converted into a very wearable necklace.   \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eOld Silver Jewellery of the Turkoman\u003c\/em\u003e, by Dieter and Reinhold Schletzer, includes an extensive discussion of the various motifs of the \u003cem\u003ebukov\u003c\/em\u003e have special meeting, with many feauturing a butterfly design, signaling rebirth, \"\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eanalogous to the tripartite division of the universe.\"  However you interpret the iconography, this are very special pieces!  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pendant is is a true work of art, with \u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003ea beautiful light gold wash, known as \"fire gilding,\" original lovely table-cut carnelian stones, and silver tassels.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eCarnelian stones were believed to protect the wearer from illness and death and the stones on this piece appear original and in very good condition.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe central pendent piece of the bukov measures 6.5 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall, not including the tassels, which add an additional 3.5 inches.  The chain portion of the necklace measures approximately 19 inches (not including the center pendant).  \u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eThe necklace weighs 203.0 grams.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eOverall, this piece is in excellent condition.  The table cut carnelian stones are quite beautiful and in good shape.  However, the cabechon cut stones appear to be a later glass replacement.  The gilding is also in good condition, although there is certainy some wear, consistent with a piece of this age.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has an \u003ca title=\"Met Museum Turkman History\" href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/toah\/hd\/turk\/hd_turk.htm\"\u003eexcellent history of the Turkman peoples\u003c\/a\u003e and the role of jewelry in the culture of these Central Asian nomads:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual’s passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Met explains that \"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePieces of carnelian, a bright red colored stone, are popular because they are believed to protect the wearers from illness and death.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"beadstore.com","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45985605714086,"sku":"Bukov2","price":1025.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0231\/5283\/files\/Bukov2-sm.png?v=1732906362"}],"url":"https:\/\/www.beadstore.com\/collections\/winter-2025\/winter-2024.oembed","provider":"beadstore.com","version":"1.0","type":"link"}